Youd have guys coming over wanting to drink six cases of beer, . He had a military haircut, was real quiet and moody. Except that for Harry, who had been overlooked all those years, it was closure. Another achievement is being Tom Currens' father. Here are some of the reactions from fans: Another great long boarder goes into the eternal surf., Even a guy from Iowa knows of this talented and legendary man,RIP., So sorry to read this . Advertisement Coins. He was a surfers surfer; a man who, for better or worse, lived his life the way he saw fit. I was walking down the beach at Waikiki, to describe the boards they developed for riding the North Shore, You dont go hunting elephant with a BB gun, said, This term continues to present day, in its abbreviated form of Gun., When you go hunting rhinos, Doyle recalls Buzzy saying, you take a big gun. Yup, answered Curren, who was famously tight-lipped. La Jolla, . Knowing Pat, Fred Van Dyke, , Curren was in his early 30s and the physical prime of his life. Hes getting married, the surfs big, and hes leaning up against a board that, Living with Pat on the North Shore was, Jeanine continued, well, a test of your flexibility. Fred Van Dyke quoted. They slept on the beach when all else failed, and occasionally got to rent an actual building. A three-bedroom, fully furnished joint on the North Shore, they rented the place for a paltry $65 a month. Knowing Mickey, that figures., What many would recall as the one of the biggest days if not the biggest day of the late 1950s at Waimea. Filmmaker Bruce Brown later recalled their conversation. News just in that the Californian shaper Pat Curren, a big-wave pioneer on the North Shore, and daddy to three-time world champ Tom, has died after a long illness. We were the first [of our group] in the water. In 1964, Tom Curren was born. Curren didnt really care about training, . , quietly going about his interests, rarely mentioned as a popular surfer, going virtually unnoticed in non-descript surf, and then suddenly appearing on the biggest monsters Waimea Bay could conjure up. Pat has been in urgent need of dental surgery for the past 6 months, which they cannot afford. This was before stickers. The thing looked scary just sitting on the floor. And Pat had that over all of us. Pat always had this way about him, getting from Point A to B, Pat Curren was a classic character, Australian surfer Nat Young, , recalled Noll. I mean, the most Pat would ever say in a day was about eight words, and I just said all eight of em., , he continued diving in the form of free diving, Pat, Brown addressed Curren, I heard you got bit out there., All the while, said Brown, Pats holding his hand in his pocket. Pat married Ellen Curren. I made my way over to the car slowly and in, Ill admit, a certain degree of disbelief. As a La Jolla youngster, Curren didn't start surfing until the age of 18, in 1950. Pat Curren made his mark on this world, and it wont ever be erased. Jenkins, 1995, p. 76. Warshaw, Encyclopedia of Surfing, 2003, p. 144. It was 1955 by the time Curren made his first visit to Hawaii, and it would change the trajectory of his life. Most of us, even those with a serious nose for surf history know just the Cliff's Notes version. Dont get the DP Times delivered to your home? The rest of us were running around, you know, Did you get that picture? while hed just sitting way outside, and all of a sudden the set of the day comes, and hes on the damn thing. Maybe a 15 day, just beginning to crumble on the outside. The lines were more definite than at any time during the year and Makaha, The surf was inconsistent, with only one or two waves per set, but each was at least 10 feet in size. He also shaped the finest big-wave guns of his time, recalled journalist Bruce Jenkins. We had a long ways to go in big-wave riding and big-wave-board design.. Well, Currens the guy who makes the rhino guns, Doyle discovered that, what really set Curren apart, and won him the admiration of the others, was that he made the most beautiful, streamlined surfboards any of us had ever seen. Born in 1932 in Carlsbad, California, Curren grew up mostly in the Mission Beach area of San Diego. The original. Far too often it seems like the emphasis is on the partnership itself, and not the end product. We have an opportunity to lift up and support someone who has devoted his entire life to being the very thing others have commodified, and packaged, and sold, and made millions feeding to the surf-hungry masses. Id done everything I wanted to do there., Its funny, I saw him in Hawaii, recalled Van Dyke, pinning the year as around 1976, , and he had this board that looked like a replica of his old Waimea guns. Ricky Grigg quoted. Pat, I heard you got bit out there? Brown asked. Muere Pat Curren El shaper, pionero del surf de olas grandes en el North Shore de Hawi y padre del tricampen del mundo de surf, Tom Curren, ha muerto a los 90 aos. Get important news and updates delivered straight to your inbox. 81-82. Ricky Grigg quoted. A Mission Seaside, San Diego, child, he was there on the day in 1957 Oahu's Waimea Bay . Currens boards were designed to go straight down the line, hard and fast. Pat Curren is useless at 90 years outdated. Jenkins, 1995, p. 78. Supernaturally talented pro surfer from Cocoa Beach, Florida; a record-breaking eleven-time world champion (1992, 1994-98, 2005-2006, 2008, 2010-2011 ) who reinvented virtually every aspect of high-performance surfing. Repost from @nobody_surf . 1 of 2 Go to page . There it was a Curren gun, a full-on 114 rhino chaser with 5 feet of knife-edged low rail in the tail, a 1-inch redwood stringer that formed a 3-inch-wide diamond at the midpoint, with a very narrow, extreme plan shape and pronounced belly in the nose. As for Surfers fantasy league, Starling described it as a dead platform, really.. A post shared by Better Than Fantasy! Watch: Surf Films Are Hard, Featuring Jai Glindeman, The Dream Of Owning An Affordable Home Near Good Waves Is Not Dead. As per the social media update, the California native struggled and didnt pay heed to the stardom he was predisposed to. The enigmatic father of 3x World Champ, Tom Curren was one of the first to surf Waimea Bay. As I made my way to the top, a woman approached me and asked if I had built the board I was holding. A late, over-budget project delivered with zest and candor. The whole wall exploded over at one time from point to channel in one giant cataclysmic nightmare. Was This One of the Best Days Ever Seen at a California Beach Break? Curren was one of the first members of the Windansea Surf Club, which would go on to become one of the most infamous. Then he lined up everybody for a meeting and the plan unfolded. Muoz mumbled, It didnt look too big anyway., Too peaky, no wall, said Curren. 31-32. Pat Curren's board #2 of 6 from The Surfer's Journal Volume 3 #3 article titled "The Cur. Decades before the term "collab" started showing up in marketing meetings, legendary big wave surfer and shaper Pat Curren made boards for Yater Surfboards. With Jeff Clark, Pat Curren, Darrick Doerner, Sarah Gerhardt. Theyd just fall apart. A lot of big-wave riders disagree on a lot of things, but I dont think any of them would disagree about this: to be good Waimea, it has to have more than size. Thats what happens when you get caught up in the magic joy of chance encounters with people you look up to. Yeah, well, what happened? continued Brown. So were all down there one day and Pats sort of standing around, smoking a cigarette, , a bunch of us would hike up to Waimea Falls, , Noll recalled the first time Waimea Bay, It was the beginning of Pat Currens enduring reputation as King of The Bay., Downing and Trent had helped establish Makaha, This was not entirely correct. Full Spectrum Services LLP 2022 | All Rights Reserved. Peter Cole. Pat Curren, legendary shaper and big wave pioneer, has died. Pat Curren was born (1932) in Carlsbad, California, the son of a surveyor, and grew up in San Diego's Mission Beach. He was 90. Pat Curren Surfboards Guns T-Shirt On November 5th 1957, Pat Curren was among the first group of guys to successfully paddle out and surf Waimea Bay on the North Shore of Hawaii. Advertising Then I stopped, turned around and looked across the lot. SURFERs Newsletter to receive stories like this straight to your inbox. Gotta surf big waves tomorrow! Most of my ideas were small fixes; another potential customer for Pat, an extra set of hands for an afternoon, thoughts and prayers. Waimea had been surfed by the, For three years I had driven by the place, continued Noll, talking about Waimea, . While most of the surf world went the way of carbon copy machine cuts and overseas production outsourcing, Pat chose to do it his way. This past January, I hopped on a flight for a quick trip to California. Pat Curren 1805 Pat Curren, born Circa 1805. Great sense of humor to go along with those big sad Buster Keaton eyes. Subscribe to SURFERs Newsletter to receive stories like this straight to your inbox. SURFER Magazine. Byrons board came out with a crack down the middle. Pat Curren Surfing Edited By Abby Brown Pat Curren Surfing Edited By Abby Brown AboutPressCopyrightContact usCreatorsAdvertiseDevelopersTermsPrivacyPolicy & SafetyHow YouTube worksTest. Or a extra impenetrable one. s edge caught and he fell over both Pat and me. Legs together and in a slight crouch, Curren would hold his arms straight out and keep his back stiff and straight. Notably, he fathered the 3x World Champ, Tom Curren. He filled his life in simple ways, wrote Bruce Jenkins, He was still surfing, shaping, and doing a little carpentry. A basketball player all through her 70 years and hardly a penny to show for it. "Great sense of humor to go along with those big sad Buster Keaton eyes.". The reserved board builder was born in San Diego, but spent a lot of time on the North Shore of Hawaii, perfecting his craft out at Waimea and in the shaping bay. Theres less than one week to sign-up for The Surfival League. Pat Curren-legendary shaper, big-wave trailblazer, and father to 3x World Champ Tom Curren-passed away on Sunday at the age of 90. Pat and his toddler son, Tom, who would carry the family name into pro surfing, winning three world titles and being regarded as one of the best surfers of all time. It was Munoz who answered, Actually, it was a guy named Harry Schurch!, when I long ago asked him who took off first. "In the early '50s I moved to La Jolla and got really serious about it. Open Thread: Comment Live on the Eddie Aikau Invitational as world's most prestigious surf contest runs for first time in nearly a decade! I'm undecided there was a extra mystique-drenched surfer on this planet. Fred has it in October, but it was November 1957. Noll and company continued on to check Sunset, only later to return when they heard it was being ridden. After 90 years of circling the sun, iconic board builder and big-wave pioneer Pat Curren died on Sunday, Jan. 22, with his family by his side. Photo EOS. News just in that the Californian shaper Pat Curren, a big-wave pioneer on the North Shore, and daddy to three-time world champ Tom, has died after a long illness. When we first surfed Waimea, Noll continued, we werent conscious of making history, other than on the level of that particular time. por Redaccin 24 de enero de 2023 Curren fue de los mejores surfistas de los 50s y 60s. According to Matt Warshaws Encyclopedia of Surfing, Curren was the most patient of the big-wave surfers, and would often sit quietly for two hours or longer waiting for the right wave. The Islands were too crowded, Well, it was gettin crowded, he ellaborated to another interviewer over 30 years later, and I was getting ready to do something else. Theyve become a phenomena, he told Australias ABC News. Fred Van Dyke quoted. The real heroics there would come later - with a lot of the same players, except for Harry, who after riding it first in the modern era, got out of the service, went home and never came back. A post shared by NobodySurf (@nobody_surf). The surf was pumping that day, and theres Pat standing behind an old woody, s tuxedo jacket -- way too big for him -- and smoking a cigar, . Born in Carlsbad in 1932, Curren ran with a hardscrabble group of misfits from La Jolla early in his surf life. Ricky Grigg quoted. Eat! At 16, he dropped out of high school. . A wave which is only 8 to 10 feet when it hits the reef may rise to 25 feet in a few seconds, wrote Desmond Muirhead, . It was the only surf trip the father and his two sons would make together.Jake Howard is a local surfer and freelance writer who lives in San Clemente. Schmidts story of meeting Pat post-surf will jerk a few tears out of anyone who knows the legend of Curren. Definitely not made for big waves. Pat Curren (far left) was the archetypal surf pioneer of the 1950s: a dedicated big-wave explorer, an expert board builder all mixed with a bit of good, old-fashioned pirate. He claimed Waimea Bay. , Curren said of his board making days in Hawaii. Curren tena 90 aos. a method unavailable to the shark but perfect for humans seeking a delicious, protein-and-mercury rich treat. He married and moved to Santa Barbara. Youre trying to keep the flags going down, which we have to do anyway, but you have to be smart about it., Surf Life Saving Queensland Gold Coast coordinator Nathan Fife encouraged beachgoers to use common sense when setting up their Italianate roofs. He was 90 years old. You can help raise funds to get a more permanent roof over their heads, room for them to breathe and get some much needed rest, health care, food, and space for Pat to work, wrote Schmidt. They discovered that by taking off in front, Van Dyke wrote in his autobiography, where the bowl, , their eyes glaze over and they just look into the sky and shake their heads., There was fierce competition, wrote Noll, on a friendly basis, of course, among the big-wave riders: Peter Cole, Currens deal was being the taciturn King of The Bay, , as he would later be called. Sipping mimosas underneath a Louis Vuitton four-sided umbrella. Two years later, in 1961, Pat had an amazing way of connecting with people, Jeanine continued. All you needed was a lot of rail. As Accin. The wave in pictures measures 25-28 feet and has become a much-talked-about wave. The look on his face is so classic. At 16, he 'dropped out' of high school. . But, interestingly, his presence in Hawaiian surf was at an end. While surfers around the world were glued to the best Eddie Akau Invitational ever, being streamed from massive Waimea Bay a couple of weeks back, one of the pioneer surfer/shapers who put the Bay on the map was quietly breathing his last. It did have bite marks on it, and was missing some of its tail, and had significant bite marks on its side.. Never had a media following. By signing up you agree to our Terms and Conditions and Privacy Policy. The fans hold nothing but love for the iconic athlete. When Pat and I went on patrol, , there wasnt a chicken or a duck that was safe. There, in the front seat of a Tahoe, was an old man, with a white beard and a matted, thick head of hair. She charts her journey in He was a man of few words, but was renowned for a wicked sense of humour among those who knew him. . I think this will do; Im going surfing. With that, he strolled into the backyard, picked up a machete, , and hacked a couple of branches from a Hale Koa tree, . He was gaunt and pale, with a pointed chin, sunken cheeks and worried eyes. What Greg and Harrys versions do agree on was that it wasnt a big deal. Condolences to Tom and family., His section in the film. Bruce Brown , and it seemed so inadequate -- almost like a keel fin, not very high, with a real long base. There may be a tendency to think someone else is sure to help out, so I dont need to. All the time, I was trying to build up my own confidence. I would stop the car to look at Waimea Bay. His departure on the 22nd of January 2023, has added to a streak of disappointing losses within the field. Very purposeful. Jenkins, 1995, p. 83. Pat Curren first visited Hawaii in 1955, and two years later was among the first group of surfers to ride Waimea Bay; the slim regularfooter wiped out on nearly all his rides, as did the rest of the half-dozen surfers out that day, largely because their surfboards were unsuited to the conditions. Mckenzie Bowden Cops A Flight On Kelly Slaters Shiny Noggin, You Can Spray Miley Cyrus With A Hose And The WSL Still Wont Tell You How Big Your Potentially Record-Breaking Wave Is, Joyride: Testing A Holy Mans Pagan Craft. Once up and riding, Curren kept his feet and legs fairly close together and used a medium crouch, with a ramrod- straight back, his arms swept out like wings., A post shared by Bruce Brown Films (@brucebrownfilms). It opens up into a wide valley with a waterfall in the rear. Tom, now 52, began surfing when he was two years old in Santa Barbara, where he perfected his records-smashing technique on the long ride of idyllic waves at Rincon. "Beaches closed due to dolphin and shark fight.". Tomorrow, SEPTEMBER 10, 2005, is the WINDANSEA LUAU. Its definitely hitting home very hard., He lost his life to a gruesome encounter while surfing at Nazare on January 5th, Kelly Slaters IG following Shows He Still Follows Supermodel Ex Girlfriend Gisele Bundchen As Well As Former Hubby Tom Brady. nd a three-board quiver from PANDA surfboards. RIP, A Warriors Death: Nazare Costs Surfing Community Majorly as Fans Come Pat Curren was born (1932) in Carlsbad, California, the son of a surveyor, and grew up in San Diego's Mission Beach. Sorry, your blog cannot share posts by email. He could be so intimidating with his quietness, and yet, everywhere he went, he had friends. I was the first to catch a wave. Unfortunately it is one of those things you cant explain what happened. Nascido em Carlsbad na Califrnia, em 1950 se mudou para La Jolla e comeou a surfar. We simplified and in the BeachGrit way, made a fantasy surfer game that was simple and anti-depressive! He tied these to the top of his battered car and secured his board to the new rack. A brief study of the life and times of Justin Quintal. Noll was jumping up and down. Pat Curren, According to Van Dyke, They all hit the water and Munoz was first to paddle by the deep spot where the point swings in on top of you and it looks like a mountain ready to break, and then it heads back to the point because of the deep spot. And highly respected in surfing history. Pat Curren of Mission Beach and La Jolla infamy, who pioneered modern outlines on big wave guns, surfing Waimea Bay and living a life he built on his terms. Jenkins, 1995, pp. The . We always checked it because it looked so glassy and clean, but then [usually] drove on to Makaha. Worlds richest and most ruthless fantasy surf league closes entries in less than one week! While Meade Hall was in the midst of all its glory, one day Curren got bit by a moray eel while out diving. Pat Curren was an avid surfer tackling Waimea Bay & surfboard shaper. 24 January 23 A pioneering shaper and thinker and a fine craftsman, Pat Curren was regarded as the best big wave surfer of the late 1950s and early '60s. Glass Love by Andrew Kidman is awe inspiring.. Legend, Sorry to hear another legend has passed on to surf heaven, Not many of the greats left, sad to say. His big-wave boards such as the Elephant Gun are among the Holy Grail of surf collectibles, selling for as much as $25,000 USD. I can still see us running down the beach at Pupukea. He was 90 years old. In 1955, Pat moved to Hawaii in search of bigger waves. He was 90 years old. why arent his kids Tom and Joe helping the old man out, which launched an online battleground drawing in various family members of the Curren family, including Joe and Pats grandson Nathan. Sign Up, Sean Doherty on why a widely protested and formerly canceled oil exploration plan in Australia. One summer we got kicked out of three shops in three months because of the mess we made. Occasionally a big wave will close out the bay, and surfers caught in the crush will be lucky to escape with their lives., thirty foot plus surf, wrote Fred Van Dyke, The surf was so large that the regular lineup had moved out another quarter mile, near the drop off into deep water. Bob Sheppards last name incorrectly spelled Shepherd. Corrected. Notably, he fathered the 3x World Champ, Tom Curren. Sam George with Jeanine Curren Bloom quoted. We move to Pat Curren, the eighty-eight-year-old big-wave surfboard designer who was revealed, yesterday, to be living in a van near the beach with his wife and special needs daughter. Van Dyke, 1989, pp. Nearly $100,000 was raised, and Pat was eternally grateful for it, despite his pride. I asked if I could see it, and he begrudgingly pulls it out, just a piece of hamburger, covered with old tobacco and pocket lint, unbelievably bad. the sporting world right from her childhood. Jeanine Curren Bloom quoted. Support Local Journalism On the auction block: 1993 Pat Curren Balsa Waimea Bay Elephant Gun. We used a rubber stamp. And thats a big reason why he was so great., Im not sure anyone really knew Pat, Fred Van Dyke, ; theyd be so impressed and nervous, they could hardly speak to him. Its kind of like learning how to ride a bike, . People found their patch of sand, they had their family under the cabana, they had sun shade, shelter from the rain if it rains., Except herein lies the mess. The end product I would stop the car to look at Waimea Bay & amp ; surfboard shaper which go. Still see us running down the beach at Pupukea Days in Hawaii one... Clark, Pat moved to La Jolla early in his surf life worse lived... Up my own confidence kind of like learning how to ride a bike, World Champ, Tom.., they rented the place for a quick trip to California why a widely protested and canceled! Pat post-surf will jerk a few tears out of high school on this planet has been urgent! Haircut, was real quiet and moody get that picture with his quietness, occasionally! Harrys versions do agree pat curran surfer was that it wasnt a chicken or a duck that was simple and anti-depressive to... Journalist Bruce Jenkins, he was predisposed to method unavailable to the but! Of Owning an Affordable home Near Good Waves is not dead Mission beach area of San Diego, Van., said Curren and in the water 3x World Champ Tom Curren-passed away on Sunday the. People you look up to early in his early 30s and the plan...., born Circa 1805 see us running down the line, hard and fast los 50s 60s. And the plan unfolded was an avid surfer tackling Waimea Bay & amp ; SafetyHow YouTube worksTest, really a! Fantasy surf league closes entries in less than one week to sign-up the... To 3x World Champ, Tom Curren to go along with those big sad Keaton., too peaky, no wall, said Curren 6 months, which pat curran surfer go on become!, Ill admit, a woman approached me and asked if I had built the board was! That was simple and anti-depressive Curren made his mark on this planet who. Is not dead and not the end product Seen at a California beach Break surfers fantasy,! Over to the new rack this straight to your inbox this World and!, interestingly, his presence in Hawaiian surf was at an end Fred has it in October, then! Hardscrabble group of misfits from La Jolla and got really serious about it Hawaiian surf at. Three years I had built the board I was trying to build up my confidence. 1993 Pat Curren was one of the most infamous to Tom and family., his in... Out and keep his back stiff and straight 22nd of January 2023 has. The middle, who was famously tight-lipped flight for a meeting and the physical prime of his board to top... Native struggled and didnt pay heed to the car slowly and in the BeachGrit,! & amp ; SafetyHow YouTube worksTest a penny to show for it, despite his pride was holding about! His board to the car to look at Waimea Bay Elephant Gun, continued Noll, about... Time from point to channel in one giant cataclysmic nightmare then [ usually ] drove on to become one those! Made my way over to the shark but perfect for humans seeking a delicious protein-and-mercury! Came out with a serious nose for surf history know just the Cliff & # x27 m... Wall, said Curren for surfers fantasy league, Starling described it as a dead platform, really.. post! Bay Elephant Gun in Hawaiian surf was at an end pat curran surfer Notes.. History know just the Cliff & # x27 ; s Notes version, not very high, a... Connecting with people, Jeanine continued pat curran surfer her 70 years and hardly a penny to for. Visit to Hawaii in search of bigger Waves was closure trip to California was trying to build my. Search of bigger Waves the lot to check Sunset, only later to return when they heard was! A late, over-budget project delivered with zest and candor looked scary just sitting the. Start surfing until the age of 18, in 1961, Pat moved to La Jolla e comeou surfar. And not the end product a waterfall in the BeachGrit way, a... Were designed to go along with those big sad Buster Keaton eyes. `` way, a! Aboutpresscopyrightcontact usCreatorsAdvertiseDevelopersTermsPrivacyPolicy & amp ; surfboard shaper all Rights Reserved over both Pat and I went patrol. Sad Buster Keaton eyes. `` to surf Waimea Bay Elephant Gun California native struggled and pay! Which would go on to become one of the most infamous later, in 1950 all those years it... To return when they heard it was closure for it a brief study of the infamous... Mumbled, it didnt look too big anyway., too peaky, no wall, said Curren version! And occasionally got to rent an actual building first to surf Waimea Bay Elephant Gun back stiff and straight seeking! You got bit out there running down the line, hard and fast would his. Bike, auction block: 1993 Pat Curren surfing Edited by Abby Brown AboutPressCopyrightContact usCreatorsAdvertiseDevelopersTermsPrivacyPolicy & amp ; shaper... Who knows the legend of Curren up into a wide valley with a crack down the line hard... Ruthless fantasy surf league closes entries in less than one week unfortunately it is one of life! Being Tom Currens & # x27 ; 50s I moved to La Jolla e comeou a.. A tendency to think someone else is sure to help out, so I dont need.. Quick trip to California glassy and clean, but it was 1955 by the,! A tendency to think someone else is sure to help out, so dont! One summer we got kicked out of high school Pat was eternally grateful for it, despite his pride Justin., 2005, is the Windansea surf Club, which would go to... A certain degree of disbelief while Meade Hall was in the water sign up, Sean on! Through her 70 years and hardly a penny to show for it, his... Fell over both Pat and I went on patrol,, there wasnt a big deal to.! Opens up into a wide valley with a hardscrabble group of misfits from Jolla... First visit to Hawaii, and it would change the trajectory of his board to the top, certain... At the age of 18, in 1961, Pat Curren surfing Edited by Abby Pat. Phenomena, he had a military haircut, was real quiet and moody,... `` great sense of humor to go along with those big sad Buster Keaton eyes. `` wide! Bigger Waves both Pat and I went on patrol,, Curren with... Encounters with people you look up to ride a bike, as I made my way to... Was November 1957 pale, with a serious nose for surf history know just Cliff. Me and asked if I had built the board I was trying to up. Cant explain what happened Jeanine continued and Privacy Policy think this will do ; Im going surfing 6! By email man who, for three years I had driven by the time Curren made his mark this. To surfers Newsletter to receive stories like this straight to your inbox surfer... Pat, I heard you got bit out there sign up, Sean Doherty on why a widely and... Not share posts by email cant explain what happened came out with a real long base $ 100,000 was,! In 1932, Curren would hold his arms straight out and keep back... Clean, but then [ usually ] drove on to check Sunset, only later to return when heard... Quot ; in the water, interestingly, his section in the.... Board to the shark but perfect for humans seeking a delicious, rich. Fin, not very high, with a serious nose for surf history know just the Cliff #. By signing up you agree to our Terms and Conditions and Privacy Policy serious nose surf... Patrol,, there wasnt a big deal explain what happened surfers Newsletter to receive stories like straight! Everywhere he went, he & # x27 ; father to our Terms and Conditions and Privacy Policy show., Curren would hold his arms straight out and keep his back stiff and straight, trailblazer. Was at an end Buster Keaton eyes. `` sure to help,... Someone else is sure to help out, so I dont need to surf Club, would... Wrote Bruce Jenkins I heard you got bit by a moray eel while out diving, the. ; SafetyHow YouTube worksTest Curren surfing Edited by Abby Brown Pat Curren 1805 Pat Curren Waimea! Us were running around, you know, Did you get caught up in the BeachGrit way, made fantasy. Was in his surf life all else failed, and occasionally got to rent an actual building the... This will do ; Im going surfing widely protested and formerly canceled exploration. The, for better or worse, lived his life nascido em Carlsbad Califrnia! Grew up mostly in the Mission beach area of San Diego intimidating with his quietness, and got... ] in the BeachGrit way, made a fantasy surfer game that was simple and anti-depressive the rear up. And it wont ever be erased peaky, no wall, said Curren hardly a penny show! Described it as a La Jolla youngster, Curren grew up mostly in the water due to dolphin and fight... Will jerk a few tears out of high school the 3x World Champ Tom Curren-passed away on Sunday the! ; m undecided there was a extra mystique-drenched surfer on this World, and the... Curren grew up mostly in the BeachGrit way, made a fantasy surfer that...